WA motorcycle test braking practice questions

Question 1

For a firm stop on dry bitumen, how should the two brakes be used?

• Rear only, to avoid tipping forward
• Both together, with the greater share on the front brakeCorrect answer
• Front only, never the rear
• Alternately, front then rear

Braking pushes weight onto the front wheel, so the front tyre can take most of the work. The rear brake still adds stopping power and keeps the motorcycle settled.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: braking

Question 2

What is the correct sequence for an emergency stop in a straight line?

• Grab the front lever as hard as you can immediately
• Squeeze the front brake progressively while applying the rear, keep the bars straight, and pull the clutch in as you come to a stopCorrect answer
• Use the rear brake only and steer around the hazard
• Change down through the gears before touching a brake

Progressive pressure lets weight settle onto the front tyre so it can take a hard squeeze without locking. Straight bars keep the motorcycle stable, and the clutch comes in at the end to stop the engine stalling.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: emergency braking

Question 3

You are slowing down on a loose gravel road. How should the braking be balanced between the wheels?

• Rely mainly on the front brake as usual
• Use more rear brake and a very light front, keep the bike upright, and start slowing much earlierCorrect answer
• Lock both wheels to dig in
• Use the clutch instead of the brakes

A front wheel that locks on gravel tucks under and puts you down at once. Bias the braking towards the rear, stay upright and give yourself far more distance than you would on bitumen.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: unsealed roads

Question 4

How should braking change on a wet sealed road?

• Brake later and harder to compensate
• Brake earlier and more gently, and increase your following distanceCorrect answer
• Use only the front brake
• Nothing changes with modern tyres

Wet bitumen has less grip and no margin for a sudden input. Everything has to be smoother and earlier, and the extra gap in front is what makes that possible.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: riding in the wet

Question 5

You need to brake hard while leaned into a corner. What should you do first?

• Apply full front brake straight away
• Reduce the lean angle as far as the road allows, then brake in as straight a line as possibleCorrect answer
• Lock the rear wheel to scrub off speed
• Turn the bars away from the corner

Grip has to be shared between turning and braking. The more upright you are, the harder you can brake, so straighten first and squeeze progressively as you do.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: braking

Question 6

What does ABS on a motorcycle do, and what does it not do?

• It stops the wheels locking under hard braking, but it cannot create grip on a loose or slippery surfaceCorrect answer
• It guarantees a shorter stop on every surface
• It removes the need to use the rear brake
• It only works above 60 km/h

ABS is a strong safety aid that keeps the wheels rolling so you can still steer. It does not change the amount of grip gravel, sand or wet paint offers, so speed and space still matter.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: braking systems

Question 7

You are descending a long steep hill fully loaded. How should you control your speed?

• Hold both brakes on lightly the whole way down
• Select a lower gear so the engine helps, and apply the brakes in firm short applications so they can coolCorrect answer
• Coast with the clutch in
• Use only the rear brake all the way down

Dragging brakes for a long descent heats them and reduces how well they work just when you need them. A lower gear does part of the job and short firm applications let them recover.

Rule cited: Ride Safe handbook (Western Australia), topic: braking